6 January, 1997
01/06/97
Hi! I arrived in Christ Church, New Zealand on January 2, 1997 ready to
travel South. The first plan is to get outfitted in winter gear. The
Clothing
Distribution Center is very efficient in providing all the necessary
items. When I arrived for my appointment, I was handed two duffle bags
full of winter gear. On the advice of the Arctic Support Service folks,
I tried on all the items as they were to be worn. It's a good thing
that I did since I did find that sizes were all mens and I had to change
several items for smaller sizes. The items were then repacked according
to what would be worn on the day of departure. That day turned out to
be Sunday, January 5th. I arrived at the passenger terminal ready for
a 12:00 noon departure time. In the changing room were lots of other
folks going to the ice for the first time. There is much excitment and
anticipation about the trip. Should I wear this? How many pair of
thermal underware do I need to wear? Is the plane heated? What was it
they said about the bathroom on the plane? What! An elevated potty for
women with a shower curtain around it and next to the bunks for the
service men? You must be kidding. How long
can one hold it? An eight hour flight you say? Well that's about how
long we all can wait. Lots of laughter and teasing about this. When we
are all dressed we move through the dog sniffing check for drugs, file
the passports with the New Zealand folks and get a briefing about the
flight. Then we setting down in a huge waiting room for further
instructions. We wait - and wait - and wait! It seems that they are
having some engine trouble and have been working on it for hours. They
are now testing the engine. Everyone says "just take all the time you
need! We don't mind the wait at all." At 4:00 someone comes in to the
lounge and announces that we are released for an hour but be back by
4:00. Everyone wanders to the cafe to eat some, but not to drink very
much. At 5:30 someone comes in again and calls for attention. Then the
magic words - we're going - pick up your gear and get on the bus!
Cheers and we are off.
This Hercules 130 is an amazing plane. It seems quite small but holds
an incredible amount of gear and people. The seats are hung along a
frame that runs the length of the front half of the plane with web
backs and canvas seats. We are about 34 in number and all
dressed in heavy gear and huge red parka and bunny boots. When
finally seated, noone can move unless everyone moves. Does that
remind you of a camp song? ; ) As we get on the plane, the flight
crew gives us each a huge sack lunch and takes the carry on bags from
us. They are piled on top on the cargo in the back of the plane.
Then the ear plugs are given out. The engines rev up, the plane
vibrates creeks and groans and slowly moves forward. There are small
windows at just the right height for some good observations. The
flight gets underway at 6:30P.M. and is scheduled to arrive 8 hours later.
Only one more hurtle. If the weather is good at the 4 hour mark, we
can go all the way. Again we are lucky with the weather and continue
forward at 10:30. Everyone is checking their watches at this point.
I am reading quite comfortably with the bright light from the sun as
it streams in to the plane for the entire flight. Then at about
12:30 A.M. sudenly we can see snow covered mountains! They are
beautiful. There is real excitment on board as everyone turns for a
better view. You can see the glaciers and flow paths between the
mountain ridges. There are shadows and shades of pink that make
the sight simply amazing. I can now see why the commercial airlines
have started fly over flights for passengers who want to see the
Antarctic for themselves. I held my video camera up to the window
and with some luck, I'll have some video of this spectacular sight.
One just does not realize how large this continent is until you see
the hundreds of miles of snow fields, glaciers and mountains.
I wish everyone could experience this spectacular sight! More later.
After The Landing
Imagine landing a plane on snow. You hear the engine roar as the
wing flaps change position followed by sudden lurching as
passengers move in unison first forward, then back all the while trying
to watch through the small windows. The flight has been very smooth up
until this point. In fact, there were no bumps dips or drops in
altitude along the way. Then the doors open and the cool
Antarctic air blows in. Someone calls out "oh, I packed the gloves in
the hand carry bag. Will I need them now?" Chuckles from the others are
heard as all the "new to the ICE" folks hurry to see the real thing.
All of what the other teachers have said is true. It's breath taking
beauty is real! Folks wander off the plane looking around when one of the staff
soundly reminds everyone to walk around the props always! It looks and
feels much like mid-day in ski country. The snow is great. Clean and
crunchy, not like the wet slopy snow I see in Seattle. Cross country skies
are definately in order here. The sun looks like about 2:00 P.M.at home.
Someone is now trying to organize this group and get us to pick up bags off
the snow, put them in the big bus and load ourselves in as well. The
locals here call this the bag drag. However, we are all much more
interested in looking around in collective appreciation of the place and
the scenery. It is really fun to experience this with a group of novices
who are all in awe of this place.
The plane has landed at Willy field several miles from McMurdo Station.
The ride takes us past the active volcano and Scott Base mentioned by the
other teachers, then on to McMurdo. On the way, room keys are distributed
and insturctions given. The folks working with us have had to get up in
the middle of the night to help us. We forgot about that. The folks in
charge break the tradition of an immediate briefing session since it is now
3:30 A.M. and say to meet at 12:30 P.M.tomorrow. Someone jokes "Do you mean
today?" Everyone laughs. In high spirits we all find rooms and sleep.
My room mate has just arrived to begin her job as lab manager. I will have to
find out more about her work. Stay tuned for more later. Bye from the ICE : )
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