19 June, 1999
June 19th 1999
Contents: Native Dancing/Searching for eiders/answering questions
Guest speaker: Gennady Zelensky (vet student from Russia)
Pictures: Native Dancing/Grace being bombarded by a jaeger/Gennady
Hi everybody! This is going to be short, since I had a long day
today! Last night after I wrote the journal, Michelle Reakoff (guest speaker
for 6/18/99), Gennady Zelensky (who you'll meet in today's journal), and I
went to watch the first night of native dancing, which happens after the
naluqataks. It didn'tstart until 11:30 pm, and was finished at 12:30 am. It
was very interesting!
They set out the blanket made of seal skins that is used for the blanket
toss, and then call up certain groups like each whaling crew, just the whaling
captains, just the harpooners, just the whaling wives, and all the people who
ate muktuk (whale blubber and skin) - this, of course is everyone. They also
called up all the newcomers, but I really did not want to try this kind of
dancing. Michelle went up, and I got hassled enough by the people around that
I said I would do it next time. I want to go back to the next one and
videotape, because it is really different then anything I have ever seen
before.
There are about 20 people that play drums which look like a skin over a
big embroidery hoop and sing while people dance. On the way home, at 1 am,
the sun was still shining brightly, althought there was also fog. It was
really beautiful over the frozen ocean.
One of the men that works at the ARF (Arctic Research Facility) said
that he saw a polar bear hunting a group of 5 seals today out on the ice. I
am still hoping to see one - from a safe distance.
It was a long day because we went out in pairs again and looked for
eider nests. I was paired with Grace Abromaitis (guest speaker from 6/17/99)
and we were very lucky because we found the jackpot! Eider Utopia! We saw 49
Steller's Eiders today, when the most we were finding before were 9 or 10. We
stayed out for over 8 hours and I had duct taped my boots around the ankles to
keep them from slipping so much on my blisters, and now I am afraid that I
have blisters on my ankles, too! For the first 6 hours I was feeling pretty
good, but those last two hours were becoming painful! The best part of the
day is when Grace came upon a Pomarine Jaeger nest. They are pretty bif
birds, and they dive bombed her and tried to clip her on the head. I got some
good pictures of that, and I was laughing hard at the same time. She was
asking me for help, but what could I do? Besides, I wanted to get pictures!
I had a few questions that people have emailed me. One was about the
mosquitoes here. They are not a problem, because it is too COLD for them! I
have hardly even seen 1 bug. I did see something that looked like a little
furry cockroach on a dead lemming out in the tundra (but then, I have
cockroaches on the brain since I am coming from Hawaii!), and I have seen a
couple wooly caterpillars and their cocoons. I don't know what their real
name is but they are the really fuzzy kind, and these are all black. Some
people call them wooly bear catiperllars.
I have also had a couple of questions about Barrow.
Barrow is a village of about 4,300 people, combined with the "suburb" of
Browerville. Really they are adjacent to each other, and it is just the newer
developments of Barrow.
They get their water from freshwater lakes and lagoons, since there is
no groundwater (it is ice!). They also use multi-year sea ice, since it loses
its salinity after many years, apparently.
I have written a little about the subsistence hunting that is part of
Barrow's economy, but they also get money from the oil found off the coast of
the North Slope. There is only one gas station, and they do not bother to
advertise their prices since they have no competition! Gas is about $1.75 or
so a gallon, I think. Gas has a long way to come to get up to Barrow (did I
mention there are no roads to Barrow - you must fly in or come on a ship!) but
Barrow does have its own supply of natural gas which they use. In fact, my
rental truck (Ford 150) has a seperate tank for natural gas! You have the
option of driving it using gasoline or natural gas. Natural gas is
cheaper,and burns cleaner. However, apparently you need a special card to
fill your tank up with it around here, so we are using plain old gas and using
the natural gas tank as a reserve tank in case we get stuck without gas
somewhere. That
wouldn't be too much of a tragedy, as the roads don't go very far out of town
(a couple of miles) before they end! They cannot put in roads up to Barrow
because of the tundra. It is a lakes and ponds and wetlands during the
summer, which what I am slogging around in. When it is winter, people can
travel for hundreds of miles by snowmobiles, so residents are much more mobile
then.
Thanks for the questions! Let me know if you have any more. Take
care, Michele Hauschulz (Teacher Exeriencing the Arctic)
Guest Speaker: Gennady Zelensky
Hello! My name is Gennady Zelensky, and I am 23 years old. I am from
village of Lavrentia which is located Chukotka Region in Russia. Chukotka
Region is like a state in the USA. Chukotka is about 20 minutes by small plane
from St. Lawrence island of Alaska.
The educational system in Russia is different from the system of the
United States. When you are 6 years old you go to elementary school for 3
years. Then you should go to "Srednyaa Shkola" which is like middle school
and high school combined. There are 11 grades but you can stop going to
school after the 9th grade. If you want more education after 11 grade you can
go to a technical school or university.
I went to School of Veterinary Medicine of the Far East Agricultural
University in 1992. The FEAU is located in the Amur Region, in the city of
Blagoveshensk. The city of Blagoveshensk is famous in Russia for its location
on the border of China. I graduated in 1997 and was required to serve in the
Russian Army. I had the choice to go as officer or a soldier. Officers get
paid, but must to serve two years. Soldiers do not get paid but serve only
one year.
The first Americans came to my village in 1989 and they were from
Barrow. That meeting eventually led to me coming to Barrow in 1997 for a
short visit. This is my second time in Barrow.
I'll be a veterinarian in my village (for fur farms, reindeer herds, and
pets) and to improve my professional skills I came to Barrow. I am working
with veterinarians from the North Slope Borough Veterinary Clinic. During the
hunting season, if a crew kills a whale,seal, walrus or other wild animal
I'll help in a samping of tissues of those animals. The samples will be used
in many scientific projects and helps me learn skills to take back to the
village. I can parcticipate in similar projects in Chukotka.I have been in
Barrow since March 10 and I'll go back to Russia on July 7.
If you have any questions mail them to Michele. Best wishes. Gennady.
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Native dancing for the naluqatuk. There will be dancing each night of celebration, which is in honor of successful spring whale hunting. ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com.
Grace being divebombed by jaegers which are aggressively protecting their= nest. She thought she would get an eye poked out! ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com.
Gennady Zelensky on right, with Dr. Dave Norton and his sled. I am not su= re what the equipment is for (I'll have to find out!) ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com.
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